Our Bonding Services
We are always happy to bond your spayed or neutered single bun to one of our adoptable bunnies. We will then advise you as you transition the new pair to your home. We only try bondings between bunnies of the opposite sex, and only between a pair of bunnies (never a trio or more).
We do not offer bonding services unless one or both of the bunnies are adopted from us, because we don’t have the time or resources. If you are looking for information on how to bond two bunnies yourself, check out our bonding page!
Rabbits are much happier when they have a friend to share their life with. They are emotionally and physically healthier because their friend offers companionship and can groom places that are difficult or impossible to reach.
What to look for in a new companion for your bunny:
- Both rabbits should be altered and allowed enough time for their hormone levels to dissipate (3-4 weeks).
- Adopt a friend that is the opposite sex of your rabbit. It happens, but bonding a same-sex pair usually fails!
- We do not recommend brothers or creating trios/groups. Even though they may initially bond, they can also un-bond. Trios are also possible, but generally only under certain circumstances.
- Size does not make a difference in whether the rabbits will bond or not, but age is a consideration.
- An older rabbit would be much happier with a companion closer in age rather than a young one that is full of energy and vice versa.
Once bonded, the rabbits will need to be housed together in a space large enough to accommodate them both comfortably.
Once your rabbit has a friend, he/she will not forget you!
Like humans, rabbits can have many individual relationships. You may even find that your rabbit is more friendly and outgoing once bonded with a companion.
What do we do?
As a neutral place, and with our experienced Special Bunny experts, we are able to work with your bunny and their new companion with a higher level of success than you may have at home.
Typically there is mounting, thumping and light chasing during their bonding sessions. Aggression during the bonding process is natural. The severity of the altercation will decide how long of a break the rabbits will need from each other before trying again. If it was just nipping, they should continue negotiations. If the bite was more serious or either of the rabbits are showing signs of stress, then both rabbits should be removed and placed back in their housing for a break after each rabbit has been thoroughly checked for injury.
Introductions should be short and frequent in the beginning and increased in duration as the rabbits become more tolerant of each other.
If the time-outs don’t seem to be working, place both rabbits in a carrier and take them for a car ride. They do not enjoy the trip and most likely will turn to one another for comfort. Be sure and take an extra carrier should they still decide to fight even when moving.
Place the housing for the new rabbit next to or, if possible, inside of the other bunny’s housing area. Exercise pens work wonderful for bonding are financially more reasonable than adequate housing and have many uses even after the bonding is completed. Alternate who gets what housing/space regularly so that no one is able to claim one as just theirs. This also helps the rabbits to become use to the other rabbit’s scent.
We will never leave the rabbits unattended while together, even for a second, until we are sure they are bonded. Serious injury can easily occur without you there to supervise their interaction.
Bonding takes time, patience and effort; it will be up to the rabbits how much of each are necessary. The end result will be your rabbit being much happier and your new rabbit getting a second chance for a happy and full life.